Bartol-Impex d.o.o.

Glossary

TYPES OF FABRIC:

BATISTE

is the softest of the lightweight opaque fabrics. It is made of cotton, wool, polyester, or a blend. Lightweight and sometimes sheer. Batiste is typically used in women's blouses and dresses and in some men's shirts. Usually worn in warmer seasons, suitable for non-adherent cuts.

BROCADE

a multi-use formal, Jacquard woven fabric with intricate raised woven designs resembling embroidery. It is often made with variety of thread colors depicting complex patterns and scenes with a shiny finish. Background weave is often satin. Traditionally worn in autumn and winter, lately throughout all the seasons.

CADY

precious silk fabric, slightly fulled, originally produced in the French region of Languedoc, for couture and evening gowns. Generally produced in 2 plies. It has a shiny face and a dull back, heavyweight, creates fine drapes.

CHANEL

material made of different structures of wool, silk and cotton, with a simple or a complex cut, used for formal occasions together with lurex. It is considered precious when it is purely hand-made.

CHANTILLY LACE

a delicate silk, linen, or synthetic lace having a six-sided mesh ground and a floral or scrolled design, made in the small french town of the same name.

CHARMEUSE

a lightweight silk, cotton or man-made fiber dress fabric which is soft and drapes well. It is smooth, has a semi-lustrous satin face and dull back. Hard twist yarn is used for the warp with a crepe yarn filling. It is dyed in the piece or printed.

CHIFFON

Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics. Plain weave. Lightweight, sheer, transparent. Made with very fine, tightly twisted yarns. The tightly twisted yarns could be either in the filling or the warp or both. It is very strong, despite filmy look. Wears very well. It is very difficult to handle when sewing and it is best to baste the pieces over tissue to make it easier. It has slightly bumpy look. It is best suited to shirring, draping, gathering, tucking, etc., because it is so limp. If made in a straight sheath style, it should be underlined with very firm fabric. e.g. faille taffeta. Suitable for all seasons.

CLOQUE

cotton or silk fabric, with small embossed designs.

CREPE

worsted cotton, wool, silk, man-made synthetics. Mostly plain, but various weaves. Has a crinkled, puckered surface or soft mossy finish. Comes in different weights and degrees of sheerness. Dull with a harch dry feel. Woolen crepes are softer than worsted. If it is fine, it drapes well. Has very good wearing qualities. Has a very slimming effect. Depending on weight, it is used for dresses of all types, including long dinner dresses, suits, and coats.

CREPE DE CHIN (CDC)

has a soft hand and considerable lustre. Made of raw silk or rayon. It is easy to manipulate and handle. It is fairly sheer. Could be piece dyed or printed. Has a slight rippled texture. Heavy crepe de chine is called "Canton crepe" which is slightly ribbed and now mostly made in rayon.

DEVORE

fine velours fabric on a silk, acetate or poliester background.

DUCHESS SATEN

also sometimes called silk satin, Duchess satin is shiny on one side, luxurious, and heavy because of its high thread count. It is frequently made of silk fibers, though it can contain silk plus polyester, rayon, or acetate filler, or be made entirely of polyester, and holds its shape well. Suitable for all seasons, usually for formal cuts, however it looks best with minimal decorations.

DUPIONI

is a type of silk fabric . It is similar to shantung , but thicker and more irregular. Made of pure silk, traditionally worn from spring till autumn, lately throughout the year. Used for accentuating cuts, usually for skirts.

EMPRESS SILK SATIN

Smooth, shniy material, heavyweight, worn throughout the year, noted for its durability, used for simple and sophisticated dress cuts.

GIRDLE

fabric with multiple designs, handmade, primarily out of silk, cotton and wool.

GOFFRATO

embossed fabric made with different pressing techniques.

ILLUSION

a delicate, gauzy silk tulle used for veils, etc. Suitable for all seasons, very lightweight.

JERSEY

usually thinner or lighter-weight than interlock knit with less stretch. It’s appropriate for tops and fuller dresses, and for all seasons.

JACQUARD

woven fabrics manufactured by using the Jacquard attachment on the loom. This attachment provides versatility in designs and permits individual control of each of the warp yarns. Thus, fabrics of almost any type or complexity can be made. Brocade and damask are types of jacquard woven fabric

LAMÉ

a woven fabric using flat silver or gold metal threads to create either the design or the background in the fabric.

MACRAME

coarse lace work made by weaving and knotting cords into a pattern.

MARABOU

a thrown silk usually dyed in the gum or a fabric made of this silk.

MATELASSE

a medium to heavyweight luxury fabric made in a double cloth construction to create a blistered or quilted surface. Common end-uses are upholstery, draperies, and evening dresses.

MIKADO

originating from Japan,a twill weave fabric with a fairly stiff hand, mikado is a wonderful choice for modern, architectural gowns. It is less shiny than satin, and less matte than crepe. Mikado also wrinkles less than silk satin.

MOIRE

a corded fabric, usually made from silk or one of the manufactured fibers, which has a distinctive water-marked wavy pattern on the face of the fabric, used in all seasons and usually for ball-room dresses that require fullness.

ORGANDY

a stiffened, sheer, lightweight plain weave fabric, usually cotton or polyester. Primarily used in spring and summer and lately throughout the year, usually for gauzy but firm dresses.

ORGANZA

a crisp, sheer, lightweight plain weave fabric, with a medium to high yarn count, made of silk, rayon, nylon, or polyester, used for veils, stoles, etc.

SATIN

with a lustrous, shiny surface, drapability depends on fiber content. Silk and rayon satins have the best stitch results.

SERGE

is a type of twill fabric which has been classically used in uniforms and suiting for centuries. Like other twills, serge has a distinctive weave which creates a pattern of diagonal ridges in the fabric, and it is known for being extremely sturdy and resilient. It also drapes and hangs well, flattering a variety of body types.

SHANTUNG

sometimes called raw or natural silk, shantung is now regarded as a finish that can be applied to either silk or synthetic fibers. Though shantung is heavy and nubby in appearance, it is soft to the touch and drapes well.

SILK

prized for its luster, drape, and softness, traditional silk fibers are created from boiled silkworm cocoons from which the worms have not been allowed to emerge. This allows the cocoon to be unfurled into a single continuous thread that is strong, light reflective, and useful in making fabric in a variety of finishes.

TAFFETTA

crisp and smooth matte fabric with a tight weave, taffeta can be woven from silk or synthetic fibers. It is known for its characteristic rustling sound, and is frequently used to create full wedding dresses that are nonetheless lightweight.

TULLE

is a lightweight, very fine netting, which is often starched. It can be made of various fibres, including silk, nylon, and rayon. Tulle is most commonly used for veils, gowns (particularly wedding gowns), and ballet tutus. Tulle comes in a wide array of colors and it can also easily be dyed to suit the needs of the consumer. It is readily available from most fabric stores and through special order.

VEIL

fabric made of silk, lightweight, gauzy and stiff.

VELVET

with a longer pile, velvet is the most luxurious fabric. Stretch velvet has some lycra, It can be machine washed and will not create a shine in the seat or elbows. Appropriate for tops, skirts and fuller pants.

GEORGETTE

drapey woven fabric created from highly twisted yarns creating a pebbly texture. It is semi-sheer and suitable for blouses, full pants and flowing dresses.

TYPES OF LACE:

ALENCON

sometimes called the "Queen of Lace," Alencon lace or point d'Alencon is a needle lace getting its name from the town of Alencon, France where it originated in the 16th century. Possibly the most popular lace for couture wedding dresses.

CHANTILLY

a very fine French bobbin lace originating in Chantilly, France. Flowers and ribbons on a plain net background define chantilly lace. These details are usually edged with fine cording.

GUIPURE

Guipure lace features a series of large motifs connected by a few threads. Common guipure patterns may be roses, daisies or geometric designs.The result is often a sculptural art deco look

HONITON

a type of guipure lace with a floral spring pattern

PUMETIS

embossed design at the bottom of muslin or voile fabric.

PAG LACE

is a type of lacework from Pag on the island of Pag, requires a needle, thread and backing which is a round or square hard stuffed pillow. It is amde without a pre-made design or plan which makes every piece unique. To this day it is used as a traditional decoration on wedding dresses. Precious Pag lace made its debut in 1939, at the World Fair in New York, thanks to the Austrian Natali Bruck-Auffenberger, who wrote a book about Dalmatia and its inhabitants in 1911 while travelling along the coast of Croatia where she discovered Pag and its lace. She bought lace for herself and the austrian dutches Mary-Josephine who traveled to Croatia days after recieving the gift and made a significant financial contribution to the Pag School for lace work. Since then the school has never closed down, making sure that the tradition is preserved. Modern school of lace work exist even today and it is the only school in Croatia for lace work.

POINT D'ESPRIT

a bobbinet or tulle with oval or square dots woven in an irregular pattern

RIBBON

ribbons attached to the lace background.

SCHIFFLI

schiffli lace is a lightweight machine-made lace with an all-over embroidered design on a net background.

SPANISH

flat roses sewn over of lace netting. Used for "mantillas"(spanish veils,coats and shawls)

VENICE/POINT DE VENICE

Venice or Point de Venice is a Venetian needle lace originating in the 17th century. It is characterized by scrolling floral patterns with additional floral motifs worked in relief